Educating Adventure sales rep, David has just spent a week exploring Fukushima. Fukushima is a prefecture of Japan with unique educational experiences for STEM, History and Cultural students as well as skiing opportunities for sporting groups. Below is what David saw, experienced and felt throughout his incredible journey.
Fukushima has become infamous for its triple disaster in 2011 (a massive earthquake, a horrifying subsequent tsunami, and devastating nuclear disaster). But this is no Chernobyl.
The story of Fukushima’s resilience, recovery and restoration is inspiring and though it does not lessen the loss, it showcases how the best science and technology is instrumental in navigating the difficult challenges we face in an uncertain world. Fukushima shows more than anything that where humankind operates at its best, there is always hope. If you think I sound unusually inspired by my visit to Fukushima, that’s because I am.
What I saw and experienced defied all expectation. I found a kind and vigorous people wanting to hold on to their fascinating traditions and past, still conscious of their trials and loss, but determined to move forward with ambitious goals and hope for the future.
Fourteen years later, the prefecture is in renewal mode, wanting to transform the pain and negative image into something restorative. This comes in the form of pursuing traditions nearly lost, attracting businesses to promote technological innovation, and attracting tourism.
This isn’t an easy task. I travelled around the prefecture to see what they are trying to project to potential tourists, and I admit that before the trip my image of what I was going to see was somewhat tainted by the disaster. They call it a hope tour, but I was sure I was going to just be depressed. There’s so much to worry about in the world right now, so visiting the site of a disaster was just going to emphasise that right?
Wrong.
Tokyo to the Aizu mountains
We started with a smooth and scenic train journey from Tokyo into the Aizu mountains, beautifully dusted with winter snow. To be honest, I was quite excited to see this, as though I am a Canadian ex-pat, it has been decades since I’ve seen snow. I’ve adopted the warm weather hedonism of my adopted country, Australia. We passed peaceful rural scenes that could be in a painting, the distinct Japanese curved tiled rooflines adding an exotic element. I was even startled at one point to see a Japanese macaque calmly sitting in a tree as we passed, which added to the surreal atmosphere. Japanese macaques are the famous “snow monkeys” you hear about that bathe in the hot springs.
From the mountain station, we travelled by bus to the unique village of Ouchi-Juku. Being a former history teacher, this place fascinated me, and the stunning view over the village, blanketed in snow was mystical. Think a street lined with traditional Edo-era thatched roof houses, no visible modern infrastructure (except the anachronistic fire tower), with an epic scenic mountain backdrop.
Shops with traditional items to buy or where visitors can enjoy negisoba, a unique dish where buckwheat noodles are eaten with long green onion instead of chopsticks, maybe with some grilled river fish (iwana), line the street.
That evening, we settled into a spectacular traditional ryokan, Ashinomaki Onsen, with a stunning multi-level entryway that apparently inspired the Infinity Castle in the popular manga Demon Slayer. Sitting serenely on a lower central platform, there was a beautiful geisha playing a shamisen with a hauntingly emotive sounds that drew us in. But no time to rest for the wicked, we were whisked to an onsite dojo to be trained in the ways of the Samurai!
Samurai School
Here we learned (attempted to learn?) swordsmanship by a group formed by the man who choreographed the fights (and was “killed” early on) in Kill Bill. By the way, he’s a really nice guy; not at all as intimidating as Japanese swordcraft and fierce facial expressions make him appear! I admit to being less than ‘fluid’ in my movements, and it was tough work, but so much fun.
Other highlights of the “Samurai Mountains” included the majestic Tsuruga castle (also known as the Aizuwakamatsu castle), surrounded by massive stone walls, coated with fluffy snow. This was the fortified seat of the Aizu samurai, who in Japan’s civil war (Boshin War) made a “300”-style last stand for the Tokugawa shogunate against the modern troops of the Meiji government. The siege lasted a month in 1868 but the “last samurai” eventually were overwhelmed.
At one stage of the battle, the nearby young samurai in training called the Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps) rushed from their nearby school only to see what they thought was the castle on fire from an overlooking hill. Believing the castle had fallen and they had failed in their duty, the group tragically committed seppuku (ritual suicide). But the castle was still defiantly holding out. A number of activities are available at the castle site, from kimono wearing, to painting the local (very cute) bobbing headed red cow, called an akabeko, which started as a children’s toy but after a smallpox outbreak became a symbol of strength, resilience and good luck. Local crafts are also available at the shop.
This aforementioned samurai school, Nisshinkan, also was an enlightening and surprising visit. Entering the giant complex of Confucian shrines, gardens, training grounds, and classrooms, through majestic artistic gates and guarded by a pair of imposing stone lions, takes on another level of atmosphere with the deep snow covering all the ornate buildings and vast courtyard gardens. Here you learn that samurai children were not just honed into deadly warriors, but were trained to be the most educated Japanese in such subjects as science and astronomy, calligraphy and poetry, and much more. This very school was where the Japanese tradition of free school lunches originated.
After circling around on cleared paths, past frozen solid waterways, we entered one of the training buildings to try our hands at archery. Though I was sure I was a great shot, the evidence was the opposite- I failed to hit the target once. It was starting to appear like I’d have made a rather ineffective samurai.
Reflections of "The Samurai Mountains"
As we headed for the coast, my brain was addled with the surprise of how amazing and unexpected this portion of the trip had been. The “Samurai Mountains” also offer affordable skiing from a variety of peaks, ice fishing, snowshoeing, and “fat bike” riding, and, in other seasons, hiking or biking around the volcanic caldera known as “little Fuji” to learn how the tradition of bonsai tree crafting came about. As a cultural homestay experience or a cultural ski trip, students wouldn’t be disappointed with Aizu and the Samurai Mountains.
Traditional Hamayaki Cooking
This next part of the trip I think would be beneficial to almost everyone, but in particular students of STEM subjects.
The coast is where the strange coexisting emotions of sadness for the 2011 tragedy and a curious sense of inspiration and admiration for the capabilities of the human spirit waged war for my feelings.
We started the visit to the coast with a cooking experience in Soma that for me was particularly exciting, as I have coeliac disease and finding safe authentic local food is usually really difficult overseas. Participating in a special cultural activity that just happens to involve eating, is always something special and fun to do, and the traditional hamayaki cooking is even more special here.
First there is the actual activity, learning how to properly skewer fish and squid and cook over a fire pit. Trust me, it’s not as slimy as you’d think. Nibbling at some other fish while you wait, the chargrilled fresh fish is accompanied by corn, vegetables and grilled rice balls. I was surprised at the flavours, especially the ‘squid in a bag’ which strikes me as a perfect food truck opportunity for Australia!
But what pushed this experience even further into special was to learn that prior to the 2011 disasters it was common to see people chargrilling seafood along Fukushima’s only lagoon, but afterward only five places including ours, continues this tradition. We heard about how the number of challenges and setbacks caused by subsequent disasters pushed most to abandon this cooking, but that the family, friends and community rallied around to ensure those remaining did not give up. The pain and appreciation in the cook’s eyes as he told the story was impossible to miss.
Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum
Staying at the inn itself, a traditional waterfront accommodation called Isamiya, which had to be rebuilt several times, and has a great sunrise view from some of the windows (I know because I was up early) gave me time to reflect how resilient the people who stayed on the coast were. (Later I was to discover most former residents of coastal Fukushima have refused to return, too traumatised or fearful after what they experienced).
That feeling was to be enhanced the next day as we participated in the “hope tour” portion of the trip, beginning with the visit to the Great East Japan Earthquake and Nuclear Disaster Memorial Museum.
Here we saw firsthand the story of the disaster as it unfolded, the terrifying destruction, the arduous challenges, the tragedy, but also the firsthand stories of those who experienced it. It’s one thing to see such a thing from our tv sets ‘somewhere else’ and have sympathy, but no real connection because it happened to ‘other people’. It’s another to be there, to see the results of disaster and the subsequent complexities, to understand the cruel fateful decisions, to witness the damaged everyday objects that remain, to hear the survivors and their painful stories. Here you begin to understand the unresolved conflict between memorialising the past for what and who were lost, and ‘paving over’ the tragedy to move on and build a more positive new future.
Disaster Education and Reconstruction
At the Ukedo Elementary School we see the rapid unprecedented destructive power of the event and learn the story of the young students and their gruelling trek to the mountains for survival, facing freezing conditions without any possessions, only to miraculously be rescued by a random passing truck driver.
This culminated in a FONT workshop project, aiming to educate with discussions by local people talking about their experiences of the disaster and the struggles they faced in the aftermath.
The harrowing story we heard will stay with me forever, as our survivor, who lost his wife, young daughter and father, determinedly sought to teach us about what he has learned from the tragedy and that science needs to understand the potential consequences of plunging ahead and getting it wrong. That ‘progress’ without consideration of real lives of real people is not beneficial science at all.
From here we saw the reconstruction efforts post disaster. This was inspiring. Yes, there was the ongoing debate over keeping some of the past intact over rebuilding over everything and erasing the tragedy, but it was hard not to be impressed with the sheer determination and authentic hope for the reconstruction to entice people back to the region and restore the vitality of this once thriving region.
We saw the brave businesses, especially in science and technologies like robotics, drone tech, solar and hydro energy, new technologies and R&D, space and rocket tech and more, returning defiantly, announcing to all that Fukushima isn’t a radioactive wasteland; that unlike Chernobyl, the region has been working ever since the disaster to safely restore the region. There’s even the Toyotsu Lithium Corporation, a joint venture between Toyota Tsusho and Orocobre Australia, producing lithium hydroxide for on-board batteries.
This was to me the biggest surprise. It’s hard to describe, but far from depressing, the experience of visiting the disaster in all its pain and destruction, followed by witnessing the buds of new life springing up from the previous destruction was more inspiring than anything else. There are top Japanese tech companies sprouting over the barren landscape, defiantly proclaiming the safety of the restored land.
National Institute of Technology
There’s the town of Futuba, once home to over 7000, now proudly being rebuilt with a flashy new JR train station and centre, buildings painted with murals. Even so, there are only less than 200 people yet to move back or move to the site. The town clock stays frozen at the time of the tsunami to honour the past. Still, everywhere screams opportunity for those who are willing to reason past their fears and embrace the now safely decontaminated restored regions. The ongoing work of decommissioning the nuclear power plant continues.
This rebirth is demonstrated perhaps most strikingly by the J Village, the massive 49 hectare national training sports complex that houses nine soccer fields (including a covered one) beside the modern seven-story accommodation and convention centre, complete with gyms, stores and restaurants. The former smaller centre was repurposed during the disaster as a logistics hub for disaster relief efforts during the 2011 crisis. Now a complex that has housed the Australian National Football Team and countless others and seen Olympic and World Cup matches, has become a kind of symbol of the region’s recovery and defiance to continue.
People staying here are surrounded by national team jerseys proudly hanging from the walls, a clean and modern atmosphere, windows overlooking the pitches. A few of us couldn’t resist invading the main pitch and having a few passes of a ball back and forward, playing on the same ground as some of the world’s best.
Further down the coast is the National Institute of Technology (KOSEN), an elite technical school taking students from the ages of 15 to 20 teaching important practical skills like engineering to prepare them for their future careers.
We were able to talk with the students and tour the facilities, which include advanced 3D printers, and learn how some of the students, without memories of the disaster, are passionate about contributing to the region’s ongoing efforts to rebuild. I spoke with a student who has started up her own media business after we watched her video about the school and she spoke of her desire to attract other students and young people to the area. The school also told me they encourage international students and have a few and would also be willing to spend time with visiting students as well.
Opportunities for STEM Students
With all the STEM itineraries I’ve worked on, the trip to Fukushima’s coast presents the most practical application of science I have personally seen. The problems and lessons of the disaster are often scientific and engineering problems. The recovery and restoration efforts use science and advancing technologies. The rebuild and enticement of science and technological businesses to the region, together with the KOSEN school, offer a region where STEM is seen as its future lifeblood. Paired with a couple of the STEM activities found in Tokyo, and students will have an invaluable experience that shows how science, balanced with attention to its impacts, is essential to manage future disasters and world challenges.
